Budding Beads

Budding Beads

Create a beautiful picture using your cross-stitch skills and some brilliant beads. It has a shine and lustre that will brighten any room!

Counted beadwork is very similar to cross-stitch. Stitched on 14-count aida, one bead will cover one square of the fabric. Why not re-use old cross-stitch charts that you have tucked away, adding beads of your choice? The addition of beads will make your work shimmer and shine. Our chart uses symbols to denote colour in exactly the same way as a cross-stitch chart.

You will need

Budding Beads

• 18 x 13cm (7" x 5") 14-count Rustico or Fiddler's Cloth
• Polyester sewing thread to match fabric Size 10 needle
• Anchor stranded cotton: Stone Green 842, Pale Sage Green 215, Sage Green 876, Deep Green 683
• Beadesign beads: Pale Lavender BD17, Purple/Blue BD19, Yellow BD48

Step by step
Step 1
Before starting, mark the centre of your fabric with a contrasting thread. For a piece of work of this size, it's best to mount your fabric in a frame.

Step 2
Attach your thread to the back of your work with a few small back¬stitches.

Step 3
The beads are attached with a W diagonal stitch (half cross-stitch). Follow our diagram: bring the needle out at A, thread a bead onto the needle and go back down at B. To continue, come out at C and go back down through D and so on.

Step 4
Keep working in the same direction,, ' from left to right. Do not jump more a than four holes along the fabric without ^ a stitch as you will lose the tension.
Secure the thread on the wrong side to keep taught.

Step 5 

Once finished, fasten off your thread securely with a few back¬stitches on the wrong side. Remove from the frame and mount.
 

Step 6
Your work may be washed if you like. Lay it flat, right side up, to dry. The beads will not be affected by careful ironing but take care not to -Ife distort them.

Soft Toy Making (Part 2)

You will need
Little Ted

Soft Toy Making

• Stretchy velour in a nice teddy brown, 36cm (14") wide in the direction of the stretch) and 23cm (9") long
• 3/4 oz polyester stuffing
• 46cm (18") soft ribbon
• Sewing thread in colour to match the body
• Embroidery or thick thread, black, for the features
• A soft pencil or a ball-point pen to mark the pattern

Step by step
Little Ted
Step 1
Copy or cut out the patterns for the body and muzzle. Keep in mind that the body lines are the stitching lines.

Step 2
Fold the fabric in half, right sides together, and pin to it the body pattern and the muzzle pattern, matching the arrows with the direction of the stretch and leaving sufficient space around the body to add a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance. With the pencil or the ball¬point pen, trace the patterns on to the fabric. Cut out the muzzle but do not cut the body yet.
 

Step 3
Remove the body pattern and re-pin the two layers of fabric together. Take to the sewing machine and stitch all around it on the marked lines, leaving an opening on the side of the body as indicated. If you prefer sew by hand, also sew before cutting, using strong thread and a small back¬stitch.
 

Step 4
Cut out Little Ted, adding a 6mm (1/4") seam allowance. Snip into the seam allowance in any curves and comers, especially in between legs, under arms, round ears and at the neck.
 

Step 5
Turn Little Ted right side out. With a blunt stick (a chopstick is ideal) push out the seams, especially legs, arms and ears.
 

Step 6
Stuff the ears very lightly and then stitch a row between the ears and the head. Then stuff the head fairly firmly, giving it a nice rounded appearance and keeping the neck narrow. Then stuff the arms, stopping when they reach the body. Now stitch a row on each side from the shoulder to the underarm point, either by hand or machine. Next stuff the feet, making sure they are firmly filled before stuffing the legs. Stop again when you reach the body and stitch two rows, from each side to the crotch. Now stuff the body roundly but firmly. Close the opening with tiny stitches.
 

Step 7
Run a row of gathering stitches 3mm (1/8”) from the edge of the muzzle, all the way round. Put a little ball of stuffing in it, pull the gathers and close.

Step 8
Now make the face. Following the position of the features in the pattern and using pins as markers, mark the points where the eyes will go. Place the muzzle on the face and find the best place for it. Mark where the nose and mouth will go.

Step 9
Embroider the eyes as shown in the pattern, with french knots or satin-stitch. Start and end your thread on the centre of the head where the muzzle will be placed so they will be hidden afterwards. On the muzzle itself, stitch the nose with straight-stitch forming a triangle, and then the mouth (fig. 3).
 

Step 10
Place the muzzle on the face, I W adjust so it looks good and, with small invisible stitches, attach it to the head. If wished, you could bend the ears slightly to make them look more rounded and hold them in place with a few stitches.
 

Step 11
To finish Little Ted, put the ribbon I I round his neck and tie with a nice bow.

Soft Toy Making (Part 1)

Soft Toy Making
Three super little toys to make in next to no time! Our cat, rabbit and teddy are ideal soft toys for kids and they’re completely safe!
These little friends are very easy and fast to make so you can satisfy several young customers very quickly. Pink Rabbit is made from a cotton stretch material and little Ted from a nylon stretch velour, both easy to find in fabric shops and not expensive.

You will need
Pink Rabbit

• Soft pink stretchy fabric, 41dm (16”) wide in the direction of the stretch and 23cm (9”) long
• 19 x 10cm (7 ½” x 4”) felt for waistcoat
• ¾ oz polyester stuffing
• 30cm (12”) soft narrow ribbon
• Sewing threads in colours to match the body and waistcoat
• Embroidery or thick thread for the face, purple
• Soft pencil to mark the pattern

Step by step
Pink rabbit
Step 1
Copy  or cut out the patterns for the body and ears from our pattern pack in the centre pages. Make a second ear pattern. Cut the waistcoat pattern and set aside for the moment.

Step 2
Fold the fabric in hair, right sides together. Pin to it the body pattern and the two ear patterns, matching the arrows with the direction of the stretch and leaving sufficient space around them to add 6mm (1/4”) seam allowances. With the soft pencil, trace the patterns on to the fabric. Do not cut anything yet; keep in mind that the traced lines are the stitching lines.

Step 3
Remove the patterns and re-pin the two layers of fabric together. Take to the sewing machine and stitch all around them on the marked lines, leaving open the lower end of the ears and an opening on the side of the body. If you prefer to sew by hand, also sew before cutting , using strong thread and a small back-stitch.

Step 4
Cut out, adding 6mm (1/4”) seam allowances. Snip into the seam allowance in any curves and corners, especially in between legs, under arms and at neck.

Step 5
Turn Pink Rabbit and his two ears right side out. With a blunt stick (a chopstick is ideal) push out the seams, especially legs, under and ends of ears.

Step 6
Stuff, pushing filling in with your stick when necessary. First stuff the head fairly firmly, giving it a nice rounded appearance and keeping the neck narrow. Then stuff the arms, stopping when they reach the body. Now stitch a row of stitches from the shoulder to the underarm point, either by hand or machine. Next stuff the feet, making sure they are firmly filled before stuffing the legs. Stop again when you reach the body and stitch two rows from each side to the crotch. Now stuff the body roundly but firmly. Close the opening with tiny stitches.

Step 7
Now embroider the face. Following the position of the features on the pattern and, using pins as markers, mark the points where the eyes, nose and mouth will go, Embroider them as shown in the pattern. Making French knots (fig. 1) for the eyes, or satin-stitch (fig. 2), and straight stitches for the rest, including the whiskers. Start and end your thread on the top of the head where the ears will be placed, so it will be hidden afterwards.

Step 8
Do not stuff the ears. Turn in the lower edge 6mm (1/4”), and run a gathering stitch all around the folded edge. Pull slightly. Place on the head where indicated in the paper pattern and stitch securely all around, at least three times.

Step 9
Place the waistcoat pattern on the felt, pin, mark and cut out. Right sides together, fold fronts over back, matching shoulders, and stitch the shoulders together with a 3mm (1/4”) seam. Turn the waistcoat right side out and press the shoulder seams open with your fingers.

Step 10
To finish Pink Rabbit, put the waistcoat on him and tie the ribbon round his neck with a nice bow.

How to make beautiful bowl (Part 2)

How to make beautiful bowl (Part 2)
Step 3
To make the ‘foot’ of the bowl, cut a strip of card 2 x 30cm (3/4” x 12”). Bend round to form a circle and secure the ends with a piece of masking tape. Turn the bowl upside down and glue the circle of card to the bottom f the bowl (fig.3). To strengthen, tape with small piece of masking tape. Cover the food and the bottom of the bowl with one layer of pasted newspaper strips. Leave to dry.
 

Step 4
To give the bowl a textured look, paste the bowl with wallpaper paste a section at a time and press torn piece of tissue paper onto the bowl with your fingers, pushing the paper into creases as you work. Cover the entire bowl and leave to dry.

Step 5
To add the textured rim, roll out sausages of paper pulp and press onto the rim, squeezing the edges with your  dinger to dorm a slightly fluted effect. Press sausage of paper pulp  to the foot of the bowl and, to make the decorative holes, press the end of a pencil into the pulp. Leave to dry overnight or until hard.

Step 6
To decorated the bowl, we used Pebeo Deco Pearl paints. They cover in one coat, dry quickly, require no varnishing and come in a range of colours. Paint the outside of the bowl with turquoise and allow to dry. Sponge the chicks and the rim and foot of the bowl with emerald. Paint the inside of the bowl with emerald (fig.4). Using pink, paint a daisy between each chick adding a spot of gold for the centre of each flower. Add two leaves either side of each daisy in emerald. Paint wavy lines of pink and violet just under the room of the bowl. Spot in the eyes of the chicks with a little pink. Leave to dry.

Step 7
Water down some gold paint slightly and wipe over the bowl so that the raised texture and chicks catch the gold and give a distressed look to the surface. Finally, highlight the chicks and the rim and foot of the bowl with a little undiluted gold paint so that they stand out against the background. Allow the bowl to dry and then

Step 8
To decorate your blown eggs, give each egg a different coloured coat of pearl paint. Allow to dry and then dot each egg with assorted colours and, finally, sponge with a little gold paint.

Part 1

How to make beautiful bowl (Part 1)

Making beautiful bowl

Use papier mache and glorious pearlescent paints to create a beautiful bowl for your Easter eggs Judy Balchin shows you how

For easter, you can create this colourful bowl using papier mache. The paper pulp we used is available in instant form from good craft shops. Our bowl is decorated with Pebeo Deco Pearl paints and is ideal to pack full of bright, foil-wrapped eggs and chocolate treats. Alternatively, you can decorated your own eggs for that finishing touch. To blow an egg, simply make pin pricks in opposite ends of the egg (you’d be surprised how easy it is!). Wiggle the pin  gently in the hole to enlarge it slightly, then hold the egg over a bowl and blow hard.

You will need

• One bowl, approximately 12cm (4 ¾”) deep and 19cm (7 ½”) wide
• Wallpaper paste mixed with one tablespoon of PVA glue
• Newspaper strips approximately 2m (3/4”) wide
• Petroleum jelly
• Thick string
• Strong clear glue
• Masking tape
• Paper pulp, mixed
• Tissue paper
• Piece of thin card (cereal packet is ideal)
• Pebeo Deco Pealr paints: turquoise, emerald, violet, pink and gold
• Large and medium paint brushes
• Gold tissue paper
• Four eggs, blows and washed

Step by step
Step 1
Smear the inside of the bowl with petroleum jelly. Soak the newspaper strips in the wallpaper paste and apply six layers of newspaper to the inside of the bowl, smoothing out any air bubbles or excess paste with your fingers as you work. Leave to dry and, when completely hard, carefully remove the mould from the bowl and trim the rim with a pair of scissors.

Step 2
Cut out the chick template. Draw round the template using a black felt tip on the side of your bowl. Move the template round the bowl and repeat until you have a row of chicks drawn all the way round (fig. 1). Using the felt tip line as a guide and starting at the tall end of the chick, glue a length of string and glue into position to form the beak. Cut two lengths for the wings, glue and press into position. Working  round the bowl, repeat this process until all the chicks are complete (fig.2). Leave until the glue is set hard.

Part 2

Unique Easter Basket (Part 2)

Wire-work fun
Wire effect baskets are becoming very popular and are attractive in the own right. However, even these can take on another look with a drop of paint. If you can’t find a basket exactly like this, how about the round wire chicken egg basket or smaller garlic containers? This technique could even be applied to metal candlesticks which you can now pick up in ‘cheapie’ shops.

You will need

• Wire basket
• Turquoise paint
• Green and white paint
• Paint brushes
• Gold paint
• Star rubber stamp
• Paint roller or pad
• Tissue paper

Step by step
Step 1
This basket was originally painted black so we simply mixed our selection of paints to achieve the right shade. This should be a pale turquoise – simply experiment, adding green and white to your original colour. You can create something like the verdigris effect seen on aged metal. Just play around with the colours until you are happy.

Step 2
Apply the paint randomly over the basket on a fairly dry brush or sponge. It does not have to be completely covered, let some of the black show trough. Once completely dry, apply soft touches of gold over the surface to add a sparkle.

Step 3
We gave a couple of sheets of tissue paper a paint over with some of the turquoise diluted with water. Allow to dry completely then decorate with stars  or a pattern of your choice. Pad out the basket with decorated tissue and scatter Amaretti biscuits for a classy surprise.

Golden Stars
We used layer of decorated tissue paper to cove a flat, low basket which would make an unusual table centre. Fold tissue around the basket until it’s well padded and glue underneath to secure. It does not matter if the tissue is creased, in fact, you may prefer this effect. Decorate wooden eggs using the turquoise paint mixture and apply gold paint randomly over the egg surface using a paint roller, sponge or brush. Scatter turquoise,, gold and green foil-wrapped eggs into the nest to add a splash of colour.

Part 1

Unique Easter Basket (Part 1)

Unique Easter Basket
Give your gift in style this Easter with our unique basket ideas.
Basket can be decorated in all kinds of ways to create personalized gift containers. At various time of the year when gifts are exchanged, it can become difficult to think of original ideas. Ordinary wicker baskets can be given a complete new look by applying a lick of paint. Use whatever you have around at home or purchase small tester pots in colours of your choice. Paint thin layers over the surface of the basket, building up gradually. Try not to clog the weave pattern of the basket and allow the paint to dry thoroughly. Once painted, you could add a surface decoration. A pretty, simple idea is to knot small strips of fabric and glue them around the top rim of the basket. Use any scraps of fabric you choose and build up the layers and desired. Fill the basket with shredded tissue and matching sweets and you have a lovely, inexpensive gifl!

Gardeners’ Delight
Wooden baskets are now readily available from various outlets including florist and craft shops. Look for wooden fruit punnets or cheese boxes which also make suitable containers. The surface of this bakset was gently sanded down and painted to create the right effect.

You will need

• Wooden basket in shape of your choice
• Fine sandpaper
• Yellow paint
• Turquoise paint
• Paint brushes
• Garden twine
• Suitable little gifts for a gardener
• Shredded tissue or moss to pad out the base

Step by step
Step 1
First lightly sand the surface of the basket using fine sandpaper. Apply one or two coasts of yellow paint all over the basket. Allow to dry thoroughly between coasts.

Step 2
Apply a layer of turquoise paint. We mixed this one with the yellow to create a pleasing tone. Paint can be applied roughly, it doesn’t really matter if some yellow is showing through.

Step 3
When completely dry, sand section of the basket – this will reveal the yellow layer underneath. Think about areas of the basket which would wear naturally, e.g. the handles and rim. You could, of course, apply a stencil or rubber stamped design on top of this. Using garden twine, tie a somple bow and attach to the front with a dab of glue.

Step 4
Fill the basket with suitable gifts, including packets of seeds, twine, plastic markers and, of course, a few chocolate eggs, since it is Easter!

Part 2

Tiny stamp design

Tiny stamp design
Add new dimension to your rubbers stamping by using shrink plastic in conjunction with your favourite stamp design.
Enthusiastic stampers are always interested in creative ways to use their rubber stamps. Stamping on shrink plastic is perfect for making fridge magnets, jewellery, dolls’ house miniatures and cards.
When heated, shrink plastic reduces in size and increases in thickness, but retains its original shape. It is therefore ideally suited for use with rubber stamped images. Since a stamped design will reduce to approximately half its original size, medium size for buttons and small jewellery items, whereas jumbo stamps are suitable for earrings, pendants, badges, fridge magnets and so on. Any size can be utilized effectively in making greeting cards.

You will need
For all projects:

• Shrink plastic
• Permanent ink and pad
• Stamp cleaner for permamnent ink
• Fine sandpaper
• Scissors
• Colouring pencils or acrylic paint

Teddy bear badge

• Judikins stamp 5230
• Permanent pen
• Badge bar
• Super glue

For the sun pendant

• PSX stamp K1781
• Hole punch
• Super glue
• 92cm (36”) leather thong
• Jump ring
• Gold glitter glue

Teddy bear card with earrings

• Judikins stamps 52246
• Blank card
• Black dye ink pad
• Ear wires
• Jump rings
• Darning needle

Step by step
For the sun pendant
Step 1
Stamp, colour, cut out and cook the sun image as described above. Decorate with glitter glue.

Step 2
Colour two matching 10cm (4”) squares of shtink plastic as backing for the sun image, punch a hole in a corner of one of the squares and shrink. (We shrunk them first, then painted them with copper acrylic paint).

Step 3
Use a strong glue to mount the sun on the squares as shown, then attach jump ring and leather thong. Knot the thong to complete.

Teddy bear badge
Step 1
Stamp, colour, and cut our the teddy bear image as described above. Write a name or message on the badge with permanent ink, then shrink it.

Step 2
Use a suitable glue to attach the badge bar to the back of the badge.

Teddy bear card with earrings
This unusual card would make an ideal gift for a special person.

Step 1
Stamp, colour, and cut out two teddy bear images as described above. Punch a hole at the top of each teddy bear, then shrink them.

Step 2
Attach jump rings and ear wires to the teddy bears.

Step 3
Use the black dye ink to stamp the teddy bear on one side of the card, colour the image to match the earrings, then attach he earrings alongside by threading through holes made with a darning needle.
Shrink plastic is a simple medium provided you follow these guidelines:

• Sand the plastic with find sandpaper before stamping on it-this prevents the stamp sliding on a smooth surface and simplifies colouring of the image.
• Stamp or draw with permanent ink and leave it to dry for a few minutes. Always try the stamp on scrap paper first and be sure to clean the stamp with stamp cleaner for permanent ink after use.
• The plastic sheet shrinks more in one direction than the other, so when you want matching images for earrings, buttons, etc. be sure to stamp all of them in the same direction.
• Colour with colouring pencils (soft leads are best) or diluted acrylic paint. Colours will intensify with shrinkage.
• Cut out images with scissors and punch any necessary holes (for wires etc.) before shrink. A 3mm (1/8”) hole punch is the most appropriate size.
• When the image has been coloured and cut out, cook on a non-stick baking tray or piece of mount board in a 130c/gas mark 1 oven for three-five minutes. The plastic will curl up, then shrink as it flattens. It is ready when flat.
• Shrink can also be accomplished with a heat gun, but you must hold it down at one side while heating.

Make a kitchen hanging

Make a kitchen hanging
We have also designed a wonderful hanging for your kitchen using small versions of the above sachet, filled with Orange spice pot-pourii and tied onto a hanging with bundles of cinnamon.

Step 1
Choose a ribbon, ideally 39mm wide. We have used a offray Gingham ribbon pattern 6445.

Step 2
Make two bows in this ribbon, one using 82cm, the second using 50cm.

Step 3
Cut a length of appox. 80cm. Fold the top 5cm over backwards to create a loop. Sew the two bows to the top, with the smaller on top of the large.

Step 4
Cut three squares appox. 13cm square in a fabric which co-ordinates with you ribbon. Use these to make small sachets of Orange Spice pot-pourii. Do not tie the ribbon bow over the rubber band just yet!

Step 5
Make three bundles of cinnamon sticks (we used three sticks each) and fasten with a rubber band.

Step 6
Lay the sachets and cinnamon bundles how to space them. Sew six thread loops onto the hanging, One behind each item.

Step 7
Cut six 36cm lengths of narrower ribbon (we used 23mm) to bow the sachets and bundles. Pull these through the tread loops before tying round the bundles and sachets. (You could just glue them but would then be unable to ever use the cinnamon for cooking!).

Step 8
Tie 25cm piece of the narrower ribbon through the loop at the top – now you can hang it up.

Heaven Scent

Heaven Scent
Preserve the colour and aroma of herbs and flowers with Janie Mann’s fragrant pot-pourri ideas

In winter it is rewarding to fill your house with the fragrance of flowers, leaves and herbs which you collected through the summer. The soft, gentle colour of natural dried flowers are so beautiful compared to the over-bright, dyed colours available in some mass-produced pot-pourri.
Timing is the key to successfully harvesting your flowers. They must be perfectly dry, so attempt to pick them on a sunny day after the morning dew has evaporated.
Ideally choose flowers that are not fully open as they will continue to bloom during the drying period. Pick lavender when the buds have just reached the deep purple stage, before it is fully open. If you want to use whole heads of roses in your mix, then also pick them when the bud is showing colour.
Dry your flowers, herbs and leaves by spreading them in a single layer on a wooden tray, basket or muslin stretched over a frame. Leave them in a warm place and preferably in the dark-an airing cupboard is ideal.

You will need
CONTRY Rose Garden Pot-pourri

• 4 Cups roses (heads and petals)
• 2 cups dark blue delphinium
• 1 cup lavender
• 1 pinch powdered cinnamon
• 2.5ml (1/2 tsp.) Rose oil

Orange Spice Pot-pourri

• 1 cup bay leaves
• 1 cup dried red chilies
• 1 cup dried lemon grass
• ½ cup rosemary
• ½ cup dried orange peel
• A few cinnamon sticks
• 2ml Orange Spice Oil

Step by step

Step 1
Mix together all the dried ingredients. Slowly dip the required amount of oil, stirring and mixing gently but thoroughly. Avoid any one flower head becoming soaked with the oil.

Step 2
When thoroughly mixed, put the pot-pourri into a thick paper bag (don’t use a plastic one). Leave this in the bag for at least two weeks. Don’t leave it anywhere too hot or damp, and shake occasionally.

Step 3
The fragrance should last at least six months. When it’s time to revive the pot-pourri, repeat from step 2.

Tip
Once you’ve made your pot-pourri, there are many ways to use and display it. Bowls look beautiful anywhere, and as you pass by you can gently stir them to release the glorious fragrance. The rose pot-pourri can easily be made into a pretty sachet for you to place in a drawer or hang in a cupboard. Here’s an effective and simple way of doing this ….

Make a scented sachet
Step 1
Take an embroidered handkerchief and lay it flat.

Step 2
Place a small handful of pot-pourri in the centre

Step 3
Bring each corner up to meet its opposite and place a rubber band around the handkerchief at the top of the ball of pot-pouri.

Step 4
Tie a co-ordinating ribbon around to hide the rubber band.

Step 5
If you want to hang the sachet, tie a further loop of ribbon to the back of the sachet. This sachet can also be made using a square of any fabric with a hemmed or ‘pinked’ edge, and could then be matched to your décor.

Watering Decoupage

Watering Decoupage
Decoupage turns a plain watering can into a lovely item, as beautiful as the flowers in your garden!
Watering can are very common, everyday sort of objects. They are, however, particularly rewarding items to decoupage because of the near total transformation you can bring about! Once filled with flowers, fresh cut or dried, this watering can would look at home in the kitchen, conservatory or sunroom.
The fruit, flower and vegetable motif used here were found on different sheets of gift wrapping. They are certainly an appropriate decorative theme but their colours are a rather unusual mix, so do take care with your choice of background paint. Dark green would have been a good choice in place of the blue or, for a really vibrant look you could for orange.

You will need

• Galvanised watering can
• Primer for galvanised metal
• Dark blue paint
• Prints of flowers, fruit and vegetables or other source scissors
• Manicure scissors
• Craft knife
• Non-contact glue
• Paste for final positioning of motifs
• Sponge
• Pencil
• Satin or matte finish water-based varnish
• Brushes
• Fine sandpaper
• Paper towel
• Brush cleaners

Step by step
Step 1
Wash the watering can thoroughly in detergent and warm water to remove any dirt and grease and leave it to drain dry.
When dry, paint the outside of the can with primer and, when it has turned black and has dried, wash it carefully again in clean water.

Step 2
Paint the outside of the watering can with two coats of dark blue paint and, while it is drying, cut out between 30 and 40 motifs. The finished watering can here has an arrangement of 30 prints, but the additional ones will give you extra design choices.

Step 3
Spray the backs of half the motifs with an non-contact adhesive and arrange them on one side of the watering can, starting from the top and working down.
Some of the cut-outs are rather bright so think about the overall colour balance of your design. When you have found an arrangement you like, start on the other side of the can. You may be able to use the first design as a guide and paste the second of motifs permanently down straightly away. The designs can differ slightly from side – now turn your attention back to the first side, remove the motifs one at a time, and paste them permanently in position. Always apply the paste to object, not the motives. Finally, paste some of the motifs on to the top of the watering can.

Step 4
Apply between 10 and 12 coats of varnish to all the decorated outside surfaces, leaving about two hours between coasts, and sand back the penultimate one of a smooth finish.

To make the cake band (Part 2)

To make the cake band (Part 2)
Finishing the cake band:
Step 1

Press the embroidery lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron. Work a row of blanket stitch all round the embroidery, leaving a gap of two unworked fabric blocks between the blanket stitch and the top and bottom of the chicks. Use three strands of kingfisher blue thread in the crewel needle.

Step 2
Trim away the surplus fabric outside the blanket stitch, leaving three unworked blocks of fabric all around the strip. Fold under the raw edges and tack in place. Machine stitch two blocks from the edge using cream sewing thread.

Step 3
Place the band around the cake, overlapping the ends, and secure with glass-headed pins. Remove the band and the pins before cutting the cake.

Part 1

To make the cake band (Part 1)

Easter Parade
Use your cross stitch skills to create this Easter cake band – Jan Eaton’s design will transform the simplest of cakes into something really special.
Celebrate Easter in style by making as embroidered hand to decorate the outside of your Easter cake look rally special, add fluffy chicks or miniature chocolate eggs to the top of the cake and present it on a silver cake board or raised cake stand.
You can also adapt the design to make your own cross stitch greeting card – on a piece of graph paper, draw out the words ‘Happy’ and ‘easter’, placing them centrally one below the other and separated by three grid squares. Draw a line round the words in the same way as one the cake band chart, then draw a chick at each side of the lettering. Reverse one chick so that the two chicks face each other. Embroider the chart several time on 14 count fabric and mount in ready-cut green or yellow greeting cards.

You will need
To make the cake band

• 10cm wide strip of cream 11 count Aida large enough to fit round your cake, plus 10cm for the overlap.
• One skein of DMC Stranded Cotton in each of the following colours; yellow 444, grass green 701, red 606, kingfisher blue 995
• Tapestry needle size 24
• Crewel needle size 7
• Tacking thread in a dark colour
• Sewing needle
• Cream sewing thread
• Two glass-headed pins

Step by step

Step 1
Work a row of tacking down the centre of the strip, lengthways and widthways, mark the centre of the chart with a soft pencil.

Step 2
Work the design in cross stitch and back stitch from the chart. Work outwards from the centre using three strands of thread in the tapestry needle throughout and remembering that each coloured square on complete cross stitch worked over one woven block of fabric . Finish the embroidery about 2cm from each end of the strip.

Step 3
Add an eye to each chick by working a French knot in the centre of the chick’s head using three strands of kingfisher blue thread in the needle.

Part 2

Tea and Egg Cosy

Breakfast Blues
Add a splash of colour to your breakfast table at Easter with these simple to make gingham accessories

Easter heralds the arrival of spring after the long dark days of winter and really is a chance for celebration. Young and old alike enjoy the traditions of Easter, exchanging easter eggs and gifts, attending crouch and spending time with those they love. Many countries in Europe decorate their homes to celebrate the Easter holiday and the idea is starting to catch on in this country.

You will need
-    40cms blue gingham
-    40cms wadding
-    40cms white poly/cotton
-    30cms x 25cms yellow poly/cotton
-    1mt yellow flat bias binding
-    1mt yellow flat bias binding
-    1mt piping cord
-    25cms x 25cms white brushed nylon or any fabric which does not fray
-    10cms x 10cms non frayable fabric
-    10cms x 10cms orange non frayable fabric
-    Packet of Bond-a-web

Step by step
Tea and Egg Cosy
Step 1
Cut out fabric and wadding using patterns provided on our pattern pack.

Step 2
Following packet instructions from Bondaweb, prepare egg and chick decorations. Cutting out whole egg and broken eggs. Bond head of chick behind zig zag edge of egg. Bond orage beaks of egg. Bond all eggs on each to fabric pieces. For the tea cosy bond six eggs on each side, 3cms from bottom edge. For the egg cosy bond one eggs in centre of fabric and for the oven glove bond three eggs 3cms from opening edge. Using an indelible pen apply two dots on chicks head for eyes.

Step 3
Make up yellow piping by folding bias binding round piping cord, stitching (with a zipper foot) sealing piping cord inside binding.

Step 4
Lay wadding onto the wrong side of one of the cosy pieces, pin in place turn over, with right side of gingham facing you, stich, with zipper foot, piping around curved edge.

Step 5
Make the cosies and oven glove loops fold and press a 1cm seam allowance along the strip, fold in half again and stitch to seal in the raw edge. Press.

Step 6
Fold strip in half to form loop, position and stich as indicated on pattern.

Step 7
With the right side of cosy facing you, layer remaining gingham piece and wadding, pin together. Using the stitching line made by the piping, stitch, with zipper foot, all pieces together around curved edge.

Step 8
Stitch lining together around curved edges, leaving an 8cm gap in the centre of the searn.

Step 9
Turn lining to right side. Place inside the cosy and stitch together the lining to the cosy around the bottom edge.

Step 10
Turn the cosy right side out through the gap left in the lining. Stitch the gap in the lining together. Fold and press the lining inside the cosy. Top stitch around bottom edge of cosy.

Oven Glove
Step 1
Cut out as instructed. With right side of gingham and yellow fabric together, place a wadding piece over each wrong side, pin in position. Stich around curved edge and thumb with a 1cm seam allowance. Clip seam allowance around inside edge of thumb.

Step 2
Stitch lining together around curved and thumb edges, leaving an 8cm gap in the outer side seam.

Step 3
Turn lining to right side, place inside the glove and stitch (sandwiching loop made as instructions No 5 of cosy, at outer side seam) around opening edge of glove.

Step 4
Finish as instruction No. 10 of cosy.

Easter Greetings Cards (Part 2)

Easter Greetings Cards (Part 2)

Step by step
Step 1
First,press the stamp you have chosen into the embossing ink pad.Now quickly colour the stamp with the brush pens. We've used a combination of red, yellow, and green. Immediately stamp onto the white card, then sprinkle with your colour choice of pearlescent powder.

Step 2
Melt the powder gently with your heat source. Return the excess powder to its container as soon as possible to avoid mishaps.

Step 3
When your embossing is complete, carefully cut round your designs. For this we used decorative edge scissors around the Happy Easter stamp. We have used decoupage scissors around the eggs to follow the outline faithfully.

Step 4
Fold the A4 sheet of card in half, so that the size is A5. Cut two comer triangles from the deep pink card, size 7.5 x 10.5 x 13cm (3” x 4 1/8” x 5 1/8”). Use the decorative edge scissors along the longest side. Glue the triangles on the top left and bottom right so that the decorative edges face inwards.

Step 5
Glue the embossed eggs on to the pale pink parchment card, with the Happy Easter fixed centrally between them. This completes the outside of the card, leaving the inside for your personal massage.

Yellow and Blue Card
Step 1
Press the stamp in to the embossing pad, then quickly colour the stamp with the brush pens. This card use a combination of red, yellow, green and blue. Stamp on to the white card.

Step 2
Sprinkle over the pearlescent powder. On the blue stamp we have used purple, whilst on the yellow stamp we have used bronze. Different combinations of ink and pearlescent powders produce a whole range of colour finishes. Experiment until to you find the colour you are seeking. Then melt the powder gently with your heat gun. Repeat as necessary. Return the excess powder to its container as soon as possible to avoid mishaps.

Step 3
Carefully cut out your design with decorative edge scissors.

Step 4
Using the coloured card again, cut out large, background pieces and glue the blue stamp to the blue card and the yellow stamp to the yellow card. Finally, fold the A4 card in half and glue the coloured cards to it diagonally, completing your card.

Multi-coloured Card
Step 1
Press your stamp on to the embossing pad. Quickly colour your stamp with the brush pens. Stamp on to a sheet of white card, sprinkle on your choice of pearlescent powder and apply heart with the heat gun. Return the excess powder to its container as soon as possible to avoid mishaps.

Step 2
Carefully cut out the egg shapes and use decorative edge scissors to cut out the Happy Easter stamp image. Fold the other A4 card in half, then prepare two rectangles of blue card, 4 x 21cm (1 ½” x 8 ¼”), and cut one long edge on each with decorative scissors. Glue them on to the folder white card on one half so that the cut edges face inwards.

Step 3
Glue the cut-out eggs into place on the blue strips. Cut one piece of blue card 8.5 x 4.5cm (3 3/8” x1 ¾”) with the decorative scissors and glue this in the centre of the space between the two blue strips. Finally, glue the Happy Easter centrally over the blue centre card. Your card is no finished.

 

Part 1

Easter Greetings Cards (Part 1)

Easter Greetings Cards 

These cards use various rubber stamping and papercraft techniques to simple  stunning effect. Decorative-edge scissors add distinctive touch and these can be purchased along with all  the other items..

You will need

Pink and white Card

• Pink and White card
• Rubber stamps of your choice
• Sheet of A4 pink parchment card
• A5 sheet of white and deep pink card
• Red, yellow and green brush pens
• Embossing ink pad
• Decorative edge scissors
• Glue

Yellow and Blue Card

• Stamp of your choice
• Two white A4 cards
• 10 x x7.5cm (3"x4") yellow and blue cards
• Andrews  Pearlescent Embossing powder
• Red, blue, green, and yellow brush pens
• Embossing pad and heat gun

Multi-coloured cards

• Staps of your choice (we have used PSX stamp B564 and E989)
• A4 blue card
• A4 white card
• Red, yellow. blue and green brush pens
• Andrews pearlescent embosing powders: green, red, blue and orange
• Embossing ink pad and heat gun

Part 2

Floral filigree (Part 2)

Floral filigree (Part 2)
You will need
1 Pack 3mm quilling papers, assorted colours
1 pack 5mm quilling papers, assorted colours
Quilling tool or corsage pin
PVA glue
Backing of your choice, and frame 8” x 10”

Step by step

• Making up the picture by referring to our numbered methods.
• Saisies
• (Make 3) 5mm width quilling paper: 16 pieces – 7cm long – layered flower (see 7).
• Daisy centres
• (make 3) 5mm width quilling paper: 2 pieces – 11cm long – fringed flowers, double rolled into in two colours. Glue to the centre of the daisies. (see 8)
• Tulips
• (Make 3) 3mm width quilling paper: 1 full length – wrapped design, then squeezed into pressed heart shape (see 3)
• Tulips (make3) 3mm width quilling paper: 1 piece – 7cm long – Eye shape. Glue into indentation of pressed heart shape.
• Leaves
• (make 9) 3 mm width quilling paper: 1 full length Wrapped design, then twisted into petal shape.

Assembly
Glue the daisies onto your chosen backing using the pattern as a guide. Curve lengths of paper between finger and thumb, then glue down, sideways on, to form the stems. Glue leaves into position, and finally the tulips. Before starting the design, study the basic quilling techniques below and practice making a few shapes. The size of your quilled shapes will be dependent upon your method of rolling and the length of paper you use. Methods of rolling the paper include using a special tool available from any good craft supplier – check out our further information panel.

Step 8
Fringed circles
Tear off the length of paper, about 3” (8 cm), then make small cuts close together down the length, without cutting through.
Roll the paper into a Tight circle and glue loose ends down. When dry, use thumb nail to fan the fringed cuts outwards.
 


Part 1

Floral filigree (Part 1)

Floral filigree
Before starting the design, study the basic quilling techniques below and practice making a few shapes. The size of your quilled shapes will be dependant upon your method of rolling and the length of paper you use. Methods of rolling the paper include using a quilling tool, corsage pin or simply by rolling the paper between finger and thumb. Experiment to find the method which suits you best. Described below is the method of rolling using a quilling tool.
Basic quilling techniques

Step 1
Loose circle
Insert the end of your paper into the slot at the end of the tool. Now turn the tool rolling up all the paper.

Step 2
Eye shape
Pinch opposite slides of a loose circle, leaving filigree in the centre.

Step 3
Pressed heart
Hold loose circle between thumb and finger, then make a deep indent as shown.

Step 4
Curved Petal
Pinch the opposite sides of loose circle bending points as shown.
Let the roller paper fall of the tool. Now glue down the loose end to form the circle.

Step 5
Using one end of the strip, make a loop (fig. 1). Continue wrapping, pinching end together, making each loop a little large each time (fig. 2). Glue end down at pinched edge. If a more pointed wrap is required, gently pinch top edge.

Step 6
Double rolling
For an interesting effect, roll two colours together. Tear one strip about 0,5 “ (12mm) shorter than the second one and place on top of longer piece, rolling the two strips together. Shaper as required.

Step 7
Layered Flower
Cut ends of paper into points. Glue one strip on top of another. Continue gluing strips are glued, cut them in half length ways almost to the centre. Run thumb and forefinger along strips to curl slightly upwards.

Part 2

Decorative Art

Decorative Art

Bluebell Magic
A beautiful sight in the last week of April is the carpet of bluebells in the woodlands and banks of our countryside.
A little bluebell magic has been captured on this recycled Danish biscuit tin – part of a collection from Christmas! An ordinary round tin lends itself very well to a project of this nature, and it does not matter if your tin is not exactly the same. Most tins can easily painted and would look just a effective with this pretty bluebell design.
The background of the tin has been sponged, which creates a heavy textured effect. We have used a dark colour which covers well and does not require an  undercoat. Sponge straight over any existing design taking care to cover it completely.
It is usually preferable to use natural sponges to apply paint in this way, however, they can be fairly costly and as this is a re-cycling project we have an alternative. Try picking small sections from the straight edges of car sponge, just roughly until you are left with a softer shape and more interesting holes.

You will need

• Acryla flow Rowney paint
• Sponge – natural or old care sponge
• Tracing paper & sharp pencil
• China marker
• Old biscuit tin
• Paintbrushes size 000 for detail and No. 1 for remainder.

Step by step
Step 1
Sponge on dark blue all over the tin including silver rims. When completely dry repeat with the same colour.

Step 2
Sponge over base colour lightly with lighter blue and allow to dry completely.

Step  3
Enlarge bluebell motif to desired size, if necessary, on photocopier. Trace design then place tracing in required position on top of the tin lid. If you wish the design to be reserved by tracing then turning tracing over before rubbing down. This will give you the left spray of bluebells. Note when tracing down onto the tin rub over back of template with China marker, then trace down with a nice sharp pencil.

Step 4
Painting Bluebells
Mix paint to follow quantities:

• 2 parts dark blue + 3 part white + 1 part pink – this provides colour of overall bell.
• 3 parts white + 1 part light blue – this provides the colour for the tendrils under the bell.
• 1 part blue + 1 part pink + hint of white – this provides colour for line highlights on bell, also centre of underneath.
• White dots under bell
• Use green for stalks of leaves – take care not to paint too thickly.

Finally the design around the top of the tin is two curls that meet in  the middle and come up to a point – rather like moustache!

Transform an old tin into something really special using our easily guide and template. The bluebell theme eill provide a reminder of sunny spring day.

Glittering eggs Prizes

These eggs have been carefully blown and washed and then decorated with Uhu Glitter Glue. An ingenious craft product, the glue is applied like paint from a tube and dries to leave a thick, even layer of sparkling glitter. You can use any design you like, from space are cartoon symbols to the traditional Easter bunny. Alternatively, just let your imagination run wild with funky shapes and squiggles which look great in these brilliant colours.

You will need

• Eggs
• A needle
• A skewer
• Uhu Glitter Glue
• A pencil

Step by step

To blow an egg

Step 1

Pierce both ends of the egg with a needle. Carefully enlarge the holes, then push a skewer through to break the yolk.

Step 2

Hold the egg upright (round end uppermost), put a basin beneath and blow into the top hole. The liquid egg will fall into the basin.

Step 3

Rinse though the blown egg with water to ensure that none of the egg remains. Leave the egg to dry in egg cup.

Decorating the eggs

Decorating the eggs

Step 1

Before drawing the pattern onto the prepared egg, sketch it onto a piece of paper to get the design right.

Step 2

Carefully draw the pattern onto the egg with a pencil (you may want to go over the pencil with a permanent marker pen).

Step 3

Apply a thin layer of glitter glue to the egg following the pattern you have dawn on. Leave plenty of time between application of colour to allow the glue to dry and prevent the colours from running into one other.

Step 4

The easiest way to allow the egg to dry without marking the pattern is by placing it on stils made by pushing four matchsticks into polystyrene or Uhu Tac.

Step 5

Repeat step 3 and 4 to give the egg a really good cover of glitter and remove any bare patches.

Step 6

When the decorated egg has completely dried, the surface can be hardened and protected by applying a few thin coasts of clear varnish (nail varnish will do).

Tip

• When blowing the egg, make the hole at the bottom slightly large than the one at the top.

Tip

• Older eggs are easier to blow than fresh eggs.

Tip

• Use a sharp pencil point to move the glitter glue into intricate designs.

Papier mache (Part 2)

Papier mache (Part 2)

Step by step

Step 1

Grease the mould of you choice with petroleum jelly. Smear strips of newspaper with PVA glue. Smooth the down over the mould until it is completely covered. Leave the first layer to dry thoroughly in a warm place (four-six hours). Then repeat the process for eight to 10 more layers. Alternate one layer of plain paper with one layer of newspaper so that you can see how where you started on each layer. This makes your work easier and quicker.

Step 2

Remove the papier mache from the mould by interesting a palette knife between the two. You may find, if you use a ceramic mould, that the papier mache will not come free. In this case, slit the paper down one side with a Stanley knife and tape it together again after removal. Trim the top and bottom edges of the papier mache vase with scissors. Bind the top edge using thin strips of paper and glue.

Step 3

Cut a circle of card for the base using the mould as your template. Secure the card to the papier mache using trips of masking tape. Secure the card to the vase finally with two more layers of papier mache – one on the inside and one on the outside of the vase. Paint the papier mache vase with two coasts of white emulsion.

Step 4

Design and choose the colours for your vase on paper before you begin to decorate the actual vase in pencil. Fill in it using acrylic paints in bold colours. Finish nwith a coat of gloss varnish.

Part 1

Papier mache (Part 1)

Papier mache is a great way to recycle your old newspapers. Make this project using an old vase for a mould. Paint it with brilliant colours and it will bring a touch of spring into your room.

Unfortunately, the nature of papier mache means that this vase is not suitable for holding water but you can always put your fresh flowers in a jar of water inside the vase. Alternatively, use it for dried flowers or glasses. The colour design is so striking, however, that it will stand by itself as a stunning decoration. Our lovely vase is not suitable for bathrooms or in areas where there is damp atmosphere.

You will need

• Smooth mould (preferably slightly flexible meta lor plastic).
• Petroleum jelly.
• Newspaper and plain paper torn into strips.
• PVA glue thinned down with a little water
• Paper scissors
• Palette knife
• Piece of cardboard
• Masking tape
• White emulsion paint
• Square-end hogs hair brushes
• Acrylic paints
• Acrylic gloss varnish

Step by step

Patr 2

Simple pine shelf (Part 2)

Simple pine shelf

Step 7
I held the shelf up to the wall and marked the position.. I didn’t want it too near the top shelf as I had a tall vase I wanted to show off.

Step 8
As I mentioned earlier, the rear of the shelf needs to be attached to the wall. This is where the baton comes in. I drilled two holes in the baton and held it in position on the wall. I marked with a sharp point their positions on the wall and drilled and Rawlplugged the holes.

Step 9
I  screwed the baton to the wall and tacked the shelf to it.

Step 10
I held the rope in position and screwed the first eyelet into the shelf above. I screwed the rest of the eyelest in and threaded the rope through the second eyelet and down through the self. Then I passed the rope back  though the shelf, through the next two eyelets and finally back down through the shelf.

Step 11
If you want to make a suspended shelf, the design is infinitely adaptable. For instance, you could screw the eyelets straight into the wall, and add any number of extra shelves. Simply repeat the process and thread the rope through each shelf, knotting it and passing the rope down to the next one.

Product used …

• Old plank of fence board (any wood will do)
• 4 x heavy duty eyelet screws
• Medium sand paper
• Wooden block for sanding
• Wire wool (to apply wax)
• Colron wax (dark oak)
• 5 metres ¼ inch thick rope
• 3/8 inc wood drill bit
• 1 ¼ inch masonry drill bit
• Rawlplugs and screws

Part 1

Simple pine shelf (Part 1)

Simple pine shelf
One of the most rewarding aspect of our house purchase was finding an  abundant supply of old (but sound0 wood. In our spare room hangs a beautiful pitch pine shelf, stripped of 60 year of paint and waxed to perfection. We really wanted to place another shelf beneath it for ornaments and books and, with this in mind, we boldly decided to suspend a second shelf, made from some more selvaged wood which we had in stock in the workshop out side.
Step 1
I unearthed a piece of old fence panel from the shed and a square baton, (this must be scrawed into the wall for support).

Step 2
I cut the plank to length.

Step 3
As the panel was quite mucky, I gave it a light sand all over. (I didn’t want the wood to look over prepared so I was careful not to be too enthusiastic!)

Step 4
When I was happy with the finish, I waxed the plank. I am usually a big fan a Briwax but on this occasion I thought I’d try Colron dark oak finishing wax. It is odouriess, easy to apply and the colour gave a nice tone to the wood.

Step 5
I had a rough idea how the shelf would be supported. I like the look of rope and wood together and I laid the plank down to experiment with various rope shapes. I settled on this pattern, keeping all the angles at 90 degrees. The rope is going to be threaded through eyelets, screwed into the higher shelf.

Step 6
Now I had decided on the rope position. I drilled four holes, wide enough for the rope to go through.

Top Tip

• Wrap the sandpaper around a block of wood; this will make the paper much easier to handle. 

 Part 2

Simple Stencils (Part 2)

Step 4
Place the transparent sheet back on the drawing paper, over your design.

Step 5
Trace your design with a washable marker.

Step 6
Cut out your design with a sharp craft knife.

Tips

• Cut out your design slowly and accurately. A little extra time spent at this stage will show when you come to apply paint over your stencil.

Step 7
Perform the same process for each sheet. Remember, you will need a separate sheet for each colour required in your design.

Step 8
Use a low tack tape on each corner of the stencil to adhere it to the wall while you work.

Step 9
In a corner of the room start with the heart design.

Step 10
Starting with pink, sponge lightly, putting a little bit of paint in each heart, then keep dabbing it with the sponge. This gives a nice soft appearance.

Step 11
Perform the same process for each of the colours used.

Tips

• If your drawing is not up to scratch, don’t panic. Magazines, book and comics can be a great source ideas. You can trace over everything that takes your fancy I hope that you will be as happy with your design as I and my daughter are with mine.

Part 1

Simple Stencils (Part 1)

Stencils
Are you looking for a stencil a little bit different from anybody else’s? Then why not design and make your own? You can make them as simple or as complicated as you like.
Geometric shapes are by far the easiest to draw and cut, and they can look very effective around the top of a room or just above the skirting boards. Most mass marketed stencils available at the moment are flowers, fruit or nursery designs. I feel that the geometric shape have a more modern feel, they are also more flexible when it comes to finishing in a corner. There is nothing more infuriating than your stencils not meeting neatly here.
You will need:

• Overhead transparencies A4
• 1 colour tester sunbeam (Dulux)
• 1 colour tester – Turtle cay (Dulux)
• 1 small can or tester princess pink (crown expressions)
• 1 car sponge
• Low tack tape or electrical tape

Step by step
Step 1
Place your transparent sheet onto your drawing paper. Draw around the sheet so you will know the right size to make your design. Remove the transparent sheet.

Step 2
Now draw your design on your drawing paper, making sure to stay within approximately 1” of the border.

Step 3
Make sure that the design is level and evenly spaced.

Part 2

Fabric craft

Fabric craft

You will need

• 100% thin cotton sheeting 150 x 110cm
• Setacolor transparent paints.
• Cut-our shapes, pasta etc.
• Sun (infra-red lamps)
• Brushes, foam or sponges
• Water

Cotton
100% thin  cotton works very well with this techniques. However, you could also use silk and cotton lawn. Make sure you wash th cotton sheeting before you start, to remove any size in the fabric. Cut a 150 x 110cm length of cotton fabric and wet it by dipping it in a bucket of water, putting it under a tap or laying it out on the lawn and sprinkling it with the hose. Lay the sarong on a large sheet of polythene, on the lawn, or stretch it on a frame before your start to paint.

Paints
Choose your colours. For the dolphin sarong; blue, purple, pink and turquoise were used. The paints are fairly thick and can be diluted, one volume of paint and up to three volumes of water, depending on the intensity of colour required. Next, paint the surface of the wet cotton using a large paintbrush, foam brush or sponge. You cold also dip dye the cloth in a bucket if you only wanted one or two colours. The dolpin sarong was painted in stripes with a blue border around the edge. While the cotton is still wet, place your cut-outs, paste etc. Onto the fabric.

Picture Frame Mats (Part 2)

Picture Frame Mats (Part 2)

Step 7

Attach entire mat and photograph to recycled or new picture frame backing with stand.

Tips

• Always store your solid coloured  ink pads upside down. This will keep the ink on the surface of the pad. However, never store your rainbow pads this way. Always store them right side up.
• Some stampers believe stamp pads store in the refrigerator last much, much longer.
• During long periods of no use, never store your rubber stamps in direct sunlight or any hot area. The rubber can actually become brittle and of poor quality.
• Rubber stamps that have a build up of ink on them and won’t take a good coating of ink can be ‘sanded’ using a stiff pumice sponge available at most cosmetic counters.
• To protect the design on the top of your rubber stamps, a bit of clear packing tape across the design will do the job. A quick wipe with a damp cloth will remove any unwanted ink smears.
• Regular household bleach makes a terrific ‘eraser’ for tiny ink smears on white paper. Simply dab on full strength, using a Q-tip. Don’t try this on coloured paper.
• When making folder greeting cards, always score your fold on the inside of the card. Any imperfections in the fold will be hidden inside the card and be barely visible.

Part 1

Picture Frame Mats (Part 1)

Picture Frame Mats

Step by step
Step 1
Select a familiar product with a clean cardstock container, making sure brand names, logos, etc., are included.

Step 2
Cut square or rectangular template out of cardstock, sized slightly smaller than size of photograph to be used. Centre template on top of 5” x 7” product cardstock and draw lightly around outside edges with pencil. Using a mat knife, cut out centre of product cardstock.

Step 3
Cut out a 5” x 7” piece of coloured cardstock. Using a separate sheet of cardstock, cut a square or rectangular template sized slightly  smaller than the opening on product cardstock. Centre this template top of 5” x 7” coloured cardstock and draw lightly around outside edges with pencil. Using a mat knife, cut out centre of cardstock. Centre this coloured cardstock mat behind the product cardstock mat and glue. This will create an inner solid coloured ‘frame’ of the photograph.

Greeting Card Mat (Part 2)

Step 3
Cut piece of coloured cardstock 0,5 wider and 0,5 longer than greeting card.

Step 4
If you’d like to laminate your picture frame mat, laminate both the greeting card and the coloured cardstock separately at this point. Cut out greeting card centre again and trim all outside edges.

Step 5
Carefully tape the photograph to the back of the greeting card, with photograph facing out from printed side. Then centre greeting card on coloured cardstock and glue. Set aside.

Step 6
Using black ink pad, ink baby in highchair rubber stamp and stamp onto white cardstock. Let the ink dry completely. Colour the image, using markers and then cut out. Laminated, if desired. Trim excess laminating film. Position ‘baby in highchair’ image on front of greeting card and glue.

Greeting Card Mat (Part 1)

Greeting Card Mat
You will need

• Greeting card, front section only
• Baby in Highchair rubber stamp
• Black ink pad
• Water based coloured markers
• Coloured cardstock
• Mat knife
• Scissors
• Glue
• Tape
• New or recycled picture frame backing, with built in stand
• Laminating film (optional)

Step by step

Bingo card Mat

Bingo card Mat
Step by step
Step 1
Take the bingo card to your local photocopy bureau to be enlarged to approximately 5 x 6,5 and printed on coloured cardstock.

Step 2
Cut square or rectangular template out of cardstock, sized slightly smaller than size of photograph to be put into the finished mat. Centre the template on top of the coloured cardstock bingo card and draw lightly around outside edge, with pencil. Then cut out centre of the bingo card, using a black marker and a ruler.

Step 3
Cut piece of contrasting coloured cardstock to 5,5 x 7

Step 4
If you’d like to laminate your piture frame mat, laminate both the bingo card and the 5,5 x 7, coloured cardstock piece separately at this point. Cut out bingo card centre again and trim all outside edges.

Step 5
Carefully centre and tape the photograph to the back of the bingo card, with photograph facing out from printed side. Centre and glue bingo card to coloured cardstocks. Set aside.

Rubber stamping (Part 2)

Rubber stamping (Part 2)
Step 5
The object of the game is to reassemble the nine puzzle pieces to create a scene.

You will need

• White cards stock
• Black ink pad
• Water based coloured markers
• Various rubber stamps
• Ruler
• Scissors of guillotine
• Laminating film (optional)

Rubber stamping (Part 1)

“Bears and Clown’ Puzzle
Sep by step
Step 1
Cut white cardstock to a 7,5 x 7,5 square. Using black ink pad, stamp various image onto cardstock square, creating an interesting and fun scene. (The parachute stamp can be inked using a red and a blck marker, then stamped directly onto the cardstock). Next, colour in stamped image, using water based markers. The bear hanging from the parachute could be stamped on a separate sheet of while paper, coloured, cut our and then glued into the correct position under the parachute.

Decorating A bread Board By Pyrography

Pyrography

On items such as egg cups and snipping tops that arrive ready coated, as you have to burn through the coating before getting to the wood.

You will need

• Pyrography machine
• Bread board
• Pencils
• Rubber
• Sandpaper
• Tracing paper
• Design book or picture

Step by step

GEM ENCRUSTED CANDLES (Part 2)

GEM ENCRUSTED CANDLES (part 2)

Step 3

Stand the prepared would on newspaper or in a roasting tray to catch any spills and protect your work surface.

Step 4

Using the thermometer, check the temperature of the wax. When it has reached 85c,pour the wax carefully into the mould.

Tips

If you dip the end of the wick in molten wax, It will be easier to thread and the finished candle will not need to have its wick dipped in wax to aid lighting.

GEM ENCRUSTED CANDLES (Part 1)

GEM CANDLES

Add a touch of sparkle to your candle creations by encrusting them with gems. Adrian Pumprhey heats up the wax and shows you how.

Before you can encrust your candle with gems you must first make the candle, In this case the candle is made with a slightly thinner wick than normal to cause the  candle to hollow when burnt and produce a lantern effect showing off the gems to their best.

Although making candle is not inherently dangerous there are one or two safety precautions that should be followed. Wax is flammable at 100c and should not be melted in a saucepan directly on the heat source.  The best way of melting the wax is in a double boiler. If be worst should happen, treat a wax fire as you would an oil fire. Turn off the source of heat if you can safety do so; Cover the pan with the towel if you were unable to do so before.

Nudity

Nudity is not too unusual in some anime and manga, even on TV shows and in manga for children. This is a result of a different culture’s views on naked bodies. Often nudity is used for comic effect and the characters involved might feel highly embarrassed. Or a character may simply be taking a bath as in the delightful children’s anime classic My Neighbor Totoro when the father and his young daughters take a bath together.

Seijuu

The Japanese term for dubber. In Japan, seijuus are as popular as any celebrity in other field. Their voices are highly valued as an anime can be popular just because it was dubbed by certain seijuus. A seijjuu can even record an original soundtrack and hold concert.

Osamu Tezuka

The Godfather of manga and anime. Starting as a medical student, he published his comic Me Chan’s Diary in 1946 and in a year, he became the biggest selling manga artist inJapan. Astro boy is one of the animes that is based on his manga. Ozamu died in 1989 because of stomach cancer.

Anime

Anime is from the word “animated” and used by the fans to distinguish the Japanese version from other animated movies. So, Sailormoon, Doraemon, Captain Tsubasa, Crayon Shin-chan are anime while Simpson, Scooby Doo, Tom and Jerry are not.

-Chan

A suffix meaning “darling” or “little” as a term of affection, usually used for little animals, cute persons, or romantic partners, later used in anime to describe a ‘squashed’ version of charas with enlarged heads and child style bodies.

CB

Child Body – a term used to show a drawing of a chara in a ‘squashed’ form. This style is also called SD OR Super Deformed. For short its called CB (Chee Bee).

Bishoujo/Bishounen

A term used referring to beautiful women/men; also used in manga world to show the reader’s preference or the artist’s drawing style. They can be either Shoujo (girl stories where the characters have long legs and big Bambi eyes) or Shounen

Bambi

Yes, Bambi is not an anime, but this is where the big eyes come from. Osamu Tezuka, pioneer of Japan’s anime and manga, was very much inspired by Bambi’s eyes, so he decided to draw his characters with big eyes, which later became a national style. Lately the style has evolved in to the trend that you see in today’s anime. But not every anime today uses such eyes, it depends on the artist’s preference.

Cosplay

Derived from costume play, cosplay is a way of anime fans to express their love for their favorite anime character. Usually they will dress up exactly like their favorite character. Today cosplay is dressing up not only like a favorite anime character but also like a character from comic books and computer/video games. There are regular gatherings of Cosplayers, locally and internationally all over the world,

Adidas 1

In early 2005, Adidas launched the first shoes with a 20Mhz computer microprocessor under the midsole. That little computer is to adjust the shoe cushioning to the ground, meaning, you will still be enjoying your run whether on concrete, mud, or rocky terrain. The technology is said to roduce injury to runners, because the cushioning is adjusted to each individual e=wearer and to each stride a runner takes. At the end of 2005,Adidas introduced the new version, called Adidas Intelligence Level I.I. So,

Environment-Friendly Shoes

“Shoes for happy planet,” that’s the motto of simple shoes, a shoes company that makes shoes from recycled materials. The soles are made of recycled tires. The shoes linings are made of bamboo – which is perfectly safe for the environment (biodegradable) and is in abundance in many parts of the world. But that’s not all. The guys at Simple shoes also use natural wool, natural crepe (rubber)  as the outsoles, and other environment-sound materials.

Night-time sandals

Care for a pair of night slippers that lights you way? These Brighfeet slippers are the answer for  anyone who occasionally wakes up in the middle of the night for a midnight snack, to check whether the front door is locked, or who just wants to be prepared for sudden outages. These slippers will keep you from stumbling because they have LED lights placed in the front soles. To save battery life,

Cataracts

Cataract operations have become routine-3 million are performed in the U.S. each year-but the are not respect. In too many cases, the performance of the implanted lens is marred by imperfections caused by measurement errors or variations in the healing process. Solution: an implantable lens that can be recalibrated week after surgery. The new lens contains a photosensitive compound that is activated by a tiny beam of ultraviolet light, allowing doctors to fine-tune the power of the lens after it’s in place.

High Heels … or not?

Can’t get enough of high heel even when you have to deal with sore feet afterwards? Well you need to fret, ladies! You can now look fashionable in high heels on a formal occasion and change into flats afterwards in only seconds. This time, you don’t need to change shoes. With the new invention from Sheila’s (which will be in production soon), you will have 2-in-I high heels/flat. And, girls …

Aspirin

For a little while pill that costs pennies, aspirin may be the closest thing we will ever find to a wonder drug. Not only does it relieve headaches, ease the pain of arthritis and thin the blood to ward of strokes and heart attacks, but as we learned last year, it may also protect against cancers of the pancreas, colon and prostate and even forestall Alzheimer’s disease. Unfortunately , we also learned that aspirin isn’t a wonder drug for everyone:

Cataracts

Cataract operations have become routine-3 million are performed in the U.S. each year-but the are not respect. In too many cases, the performance of the implanted lens is marred by imperfections caused by measurement errors or variations in the healing process. Solution: an implantable lens that can be recalibrated week after surgery. The new lens contains a photosensitive compound that is activated by a tiny beam of ultraviolet light, allowing doctors to fine-tune the power of the lens after it’s in place.

Botox

2002 was the year of the Botox party –a festive variation on the Tupperware klatch – in which women gather for tea sandwiches and a shot of dilute botulinum toxin in the face. The FDA last year approved the use of Botox which creates a temporary and localized paralysis in facial muscles, for smoothing wrinkles between the eyebrows. But doctors are also using the shots for such “off label” applications as crow’s-feet, furrowed brows and other frown lines. If the sign of all those glassy Botox faces is giving you a headache,

Vaccines

Why is autism 10 times as prevalent among young children today as it was in the 1980s? Many presents, nothing that the onset of symptoms coincided with their child’s vaccination against measles, mumps and rubella (MMR), are convinced that the mercury used as a preservative in the vaccine is to blame. But doctors have not been able to find a link, and now the results of a Danish survey of more than 500,000 children should finally put the theory to rest. The researches found no difference in the incidence in the incidence of autism between children who received MMR shots and those who did not.

Diabetes

Close to 20 million Americans have diabetes, and nearly that many have a condition doctors have started to call prediabetes. Experts project that by the end of the decade 10% of the U.S. will be diabetic. A big part of the problem is that cases of Type 2 diabetes, which used to be called adult-onset diabetes are exploding among children and young adults. For kids at risk, drinking more milk might help. A study from that because the lactose in dairy products metabolizes slowly, it can help regulate blood sugar levels. This doesn’t mean kinds should live on milk shakes and fried mozzarella sticks.

Mercury

You many not be into heavy metal music, but if you are a fish eater, heavy metals are in side you. The omega-3 fatty acids in big, deep-ocean fish are good for the heart, but the fresh of fish at the top of the pelagic food chain also tends to be laced with pollutants. Chief among them: mercury, which can increase the risk of heart disease. Should you fish or cut bait? So far it’s a draw, with two major studies coming to opposite conclusions. Until more studies are complete, doctors believe that the benefit of fish outweigh the risks, except for pregnant women and nursing moms,

Osteoporosis

Bone may look hard and statistic, but it’s very much alive : new bone cells are constantly being made and old bone cells destroyed. With age, however, less bone gets made than destroyed. Result:  10 million Americans have dangerously low bone mass, or osteoporosis. This process can be revered, however, and in November the FDA approved Forteo, the first treatment that does that. The drug contains part of the human parathyroid hormone, which builds up bone by boosting bone-making cells and suppressing bone destroyers. Studies show that postmenopausal women taking Forteo along with calcium and vitamin-D supplements significantly reduced their risk of fractures.

Prostate Cancer

Watchful waiting has become a byword for prostate-cancer patients, most of whom won’t need aggressive surgery to remove their slow growing tumors. But doctors have long felt uneasy about the figh trope they walked, trying to find the right balance between advising surgery for those men most likely to survive the cancer and counseling those with the slowest growing tumors to watch and wait. Fresh guidance came last year from a large Scandinavian study, in which men randomly assigned to undergo surgery produced by 50% their risk of drying from prostate cancer or having their cancer spread. It’s not clear, however, how this applies to American men. In the Scandinavian group. Most patients were found to have relatively advanced tumors, big enough be felt in a doctor’s manual exam. By contrast, in the U.S., 75% of men’s tumors are discovered by a blood test, which pick up cancers long before they become noticeable.

Nicotine

You can’t smoke ‘em if you got ’em in more and more public places, but what about licking ‘em or drinking ‘em? Not without the government’s green light. The FDA warned pharmacists to stop mixing up nicotine-laden lollipops and lip balm, both of which the agency ruled were illegal drugs that could appeal to children. A few month  later, the FDA dried up a California company’s plants to douse the national with nicotine products the agency okayed for over the counter sale were nicotine lozenges, which hit U.S. store in November.

A tread for Tired Feet (Part2)

If you want toad color to your nails, these are the steps:

1. Have ready a base coat, a nail polish, and a top coat. You may also need a bottle of nail dryer spray.
2. Put on tor dividers on your toes.
3. Apply the base coat and wait until it dries. Then apply the nail polish. After the nail polish is dry, apply the top coat.
4. Spay the nail dryer over your toes.

A tread for Tired Feet (Part1)

Before the treatment, you need to:

1. Get ready all the tools you need and place them near you.
2. Sterilize the nail cutter/ trimmer, cuticle cutter, and manicure/ cuticle pusher sticks.

Procedure:

• Soak your feet in lukewarm water for about five minutes. Add a little soap, too.
• Dry your feet apply some antiseptic.
• Trim your toe nails and fill the edges with a nail file or emery board.
• Soak your feet in the water again and bush them. Dry them again with a dry towel.
• Put some cuticle remover on toe nails. Wait for a couple of minutes for the cuticle to soften, then push it back with a manicure/cuticle pusher stick. Cut the cuticle carefully.
• Remove the dirt under the nails.